What to Do in Paris's 11th Arrondissement in 24 Hours?
The Big Mamma squadra is taking you on a 24-hour adventure through Paris's 11th arrondissement, with three itineraries to enjoy solo, as a couple, or with friends. Pick the one that suits your mood, and don't forget to stop for an ultra-indulgent Italian feast at East Mamma or Ober Mamma.
A Day Out Solo
10am: Marché d’Aligre
Start your day at Marché d’Aligre with a coffee at Early Bird, a brilliant local coffee roaster, before stocking up at the market. Pick up some fresh fruit, dates and coffee to take home.
11:30am: Aligre Flea Market
Keep filling your basket as you browse the Aligre Flea Market (open until 1pm), right on the same square, and hunt for a few hidden gems.
1pm: East Mamma
Take a seat at the counter at East Mamma, with a front-row view of all the action in the kitchen. Watch our pizzaioli work their magic, see the linguine fresca alla carbonara come together, or admire the finishing touches on our pineapple carpaccio with spicy passion fruit.
3pm: Hidden Passages
Explore the hidden passages of Paris’s 11th arrondissement: Cité du Figuier, Cour de l’Étoile-d’Or and Passage Lhomme. These little corners feel frozen in time, with their artists’ workshops and façades that echo the neighbourhood’s industrial past.
5pm: Square Trousseau
Take a break at the Square Trousseau bistro, grab a table on the terrace overlooking the square, pop on your sunglasses and watch the world go by.
7:30pm: Dinner by the Water
Round off the day with an iconic sabich from La Sabicherie, followed by a leisurely stroll along the Port de l’Arsenal.
A day for two
10am: Café Passager
Wake up gently at Café Passager on Avenue Ledru-Rollin, with a tempting plate of freshly made pancakes to share.
11:30am: Rue de Charonne
Take a stroll down Rue de Charonne, popping into concept stores like La Capsuline and hunting for the quirkiest little finds.
1pm: Le 6 Paul Bert
Grab a table on the terrace or a seat at the marble counter and share seasonal plates by chef Caroline Douroux, paired with a bold bottle of natural wine.
3:30pm: Opéra Bastille
Make your way to Opéra Bastille and pick up tickets for a show, ballet or concert – the choice is yours.
7:30pm: Ober Mamma
End the day at Ober Mamma, beneath the huge glass roof and its XXL tree. In this warm, secret-garden setting, share generous Neapolitan pizz’ and pasta fatta in casa, before finishing on a sweet note with an irresistibly creamy tiramisù.
A day with friends
11am: Le Pont Traversé
Meet up opposite the square and, weather permitting, settle onto the benches outside Le Pont Traversé coffee shop for a proper debrief of the night before, over a good coffee, freshly squeezed juice or a slice of cardamom cake.
1:30pm: East Mamma
Then head to East Mamma for a late lunch around one big table. Between laughs and stories, share our pillowy Neapolitan pizz’ with their unforgettable cornicione: hot, quattro formaggi, regina, parma or even pumpkin.
4pm: Majestic Bastille
Time to let lunch go down with a movie? Head to this iconic independent cinema, sink into one of its comfy seats and wait for the lights to dim. And… action. Nobody move.
6:30pm: Les Cuves de Fauve
Back on the move with a stop at Les Cuves de Fauve. Take your pick from the brewpub’s 16 beers on tap and raise a glass with the gang.
8:45pm: Buck Fried Chicken
Next stop: Buck Fried Chicken for some seriously crispy fried chicken. Try the baby burgers and their homemade lemonade (insanely good), best enjoyed with your mates.
10:30pm: Fréquence
Is Keller really on Rue Keller? Time for another drink and a little dance to the seriously cool vinyl spinning at Fréquence, before seeing where the night takes you.
Midnight: Badaboum
Not ready to call it a night? Finish with a bang at Badaboum, an iconic club in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, where DJ sets, live gigs and a serious love for electronic music keep the party going.
A morning in Paris’s 11th arrondissement
Aligre Market
Start the day with a stroll through the bustling aisles of the famous Aligre Market, among colourful stalls, seasonal fruit and the cheerful buzz of the neighbourhood. For a gentle wake-up, stop by Early Bird, Joseph’s coffee shop, where the Irish roaster serves up coffees full of surprises. Guatemala with praline notes, a chocolatey Ethiopian brew or a fruity Costa Rican coffee: pick your favourite before heading off with a basket full of goodies.
Aligre Flea Market
The treasure hunt continues at the Aligre Flea Market, held on the market square from Tuesday to Sunday until 1pm. Between vintage tableware, old vinyl records, retro clothing and all those little things you never knew you needed, have a rummage, haggle a little and see what catches your eye. With a bit of luck, you’ll leave with a gem full of stories, a fabulous coat or that one lucky charm missing from your collection.
Rue de Charonne
From Aligre, take a leisurely stroll up Rue de Charonne, one of the liveliest streets in the neighbourhood. Browse its concept stores, independent boutiques and designer shops in search of a quirky find or the perfect gift. Between stops, look up and admire the façades and hidden courtyards that still tell the story of Paris’s artisan past.
Faubourg Saint-Antoine
Before lunch, make your way to Faubourg Saint-Antoine, once the beating heart of Parisian craftsmanship. Behind some of its old carriage doors, you’ll still find hidden courtyards, workshops and places full of character. Wander along with your eyes wide open, taking in historic shopfronts and unexpected details, before slowly making your way back towards East Mamma. A little stroll through the neighbourhood’s working-class and creative past.
East Mamma
At last, the best time of the day: lunch. Grab a seat at the counter at East Mamma, just around the corner from Aligre Market, and enjoy a front-row view of the open kitchen. Thinly sliced bresaola, pistachio mortadella, generous carbonara and Neapolitan pizz’ parade before your eyes. Order a Bellini, let the squadra work its magic and tuck into Italian recipes made with ingredients sourced directly from our producers.
What to do in Paris’s 11th arrondissement in the afternoon?
Hidden passages
How about a little post-lunch stroll? Keep the solo treasure hunt going as you explore the countless hidden passages of Paris’s 11th arrondissement. Wander through Cité du Figuier, with its old industrial buildings covered in ivy and greenery; Cour de l’Étoile-d’Or, tucked away down a narrow passage worthy of Indiana Jones; Passage Lhomme, where its old workshops take you back in time; and Cour de l’Ours, a hidden gem not to be missed as you wander along Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine.
Square Trousseau
After wandering through all those hidden passages, settle down on the terrace at Square Trousseau, a neighbourhood bistro with a beautiful dark wooden façade. Put on your best sunglasses (or, if the weather has other plans, a hood will do just fine) and spend far too long people-watching. Make up stories about passers-by, read a little and simply enjoy the view over the square.
Majestic Bastille
After exploring the hidden passages, head to Majestic Bastille, a much-loved independent cinema in the neighbourhood. Sink into a comfy seat, let the lights go down and discover the film of the day, whether it’s a timeless classic or a lesser-known gem. It’s the perfect excuse to rest your legs, escape a Parisian downpour and add a little movie magic to your day in the 11th arrondissement.
Ober Mamma
When aperitivo time rolls around, head up towards Richard-Lenoir and step inside Ober Mamma. Grab a seat by its bar full of stories or beneath the huge glass roof, in the shade of the XXL tree. Spritz in hand, watch the squadra send out Neapolitan pizz’ and pasta fatta in casa, while soaking up the lively atmosphere of Big Mamma’s second spot in the 11th arrondissement.
An evening stroll after dinner
After dinner at Ober Mamma, keep the evening going with a leisurely stroll along Boulevard Richard-Lenoir. Wander beneath the trees towards République, before making your way to the banks of Canal Saint-Martin, where the city lights shimmer on the water. Take your time, look back on the day and enjoy Paris as the pace begins to slow. One last gentle wander before heading home.
For the lovebirds
Passager Café
While the birds of Point du Jour sing their love songs, we meet up at Café Passager on Avenue Ledru-Rollin. In this cosy neighbourhood coffee shop, we gaze into each other’s eyes over a generous plate of freshly made pancakes between us - because really, what could be more beautiful?
Charonne Street
Hand in hand, we wander up Rue de Charonne, taking in its lovely neighbourhood spots along the way. We window-shop at concept stores, independent designer boutiques and little shops full of surprises. At La Capsuline or somewhere else that catches our eye, we hunt for a quirky little find to make each other smile, before carrying on past Parisian façades, lively terraces and hidden courtyards.
Le Bistrot Simone
Whether you’re out on the terrace, perched at the marble counter or cosied up around a table, there’s always a little spot to settle into. Expect proper French bistro cooking, some seriously good natural wines and Chef Numa Muller calling the shots in the kitchen. Share a few plates or keep your favourite all to yourself — the menu is short, seasonal and packed with pure gourmandise.
The Opéra Bastille
After lunch, we make our way to Place de la Bastille for a little culture fix at the Opéra. Ballet, concert or an epic love story sung at full volume — have a peek at what’s on and pick the show that feels just right. Even without a ticket, the impressive façade is well worth a detour, adding a little très Parisian culture to our romantic wander.
East Mamma
We end the day on a high with a candlelit dinner at East Mamma. Even when the dining room is buzzing, it somehow feels like it’s just the two of you. Start by sharing a burrata al pomodoro and mortadella with pistachio, before moving on to a cheeky piatto. And for a happy ending? Go all in on a Neapolitan profiterole or a show-stopping tiramisù.
Port de l’Arsenal
We carry on our little wander down to the Port de l’Arsenal, with its moored boats and peaceful reflections tucked away beneath Bastille. We stroll along the water, steal a moment on a bench and watch Paris slowly shift gears as evening rolls in. The perfect little pause to look back on the day before heading to our final stop, with our appetites making a gentle comeback.
